What are polynucleotides, exactly?
Polynucleotides (PN) and polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRN) are DNA-based fragments, typically derived from salmon or trout sperm. When injected into skin, they trigger fibroblasts β the cells responsible for making collagen β to increase collagen synthesis. This is a different mechanism from dermal fillers, which physically add volume, or growth factors, which signal cellular activity.
The injectable form is what's making noise in aesthetics clinics in 2026. It's different from topical serums or oral supplements claiming the same thing. Injected polynucleotides reach the dermis directly, where they work on the cells that actually build skin structure.
A 2025 review in MDPI Applications identified the mechanisms: PDRN activates fibroblasts, upregulates collagen I and III synthesis, enhances hyaluronic acid production, and reduces oxidative stress and inflammation. These are the measurable pathways behind visible skin improvements.
Polynucleotides vs. dermal fillers: the honest difference
Here's the critical distinction. Dermal fillers (like hyaluronic acid or calcium hydroxylapatite) work by adding physical volume to smooth lines. You get immediate results. But the filler breaks down over time, and you need repeat treatments.
Polynucleotides work differently. They stimulate your own skin to make more collagen. The results are slower β typically visible over 4β8 weeks as your skin rebuilds itself. But because they're stimulating collagen production, not adding a substance, the results can last longer. Filler is instant gratification. Polynucleotides are slower β they're building something, not filling a gap.
If you need results immediately for an event in two weeks, filler is the answer. If you want to address fine lines, texture, and skin quality over time and you're patient, polynucleotides fit that timeline better. Many aesthetic practitioners combine both: polynucleotides for structural improvement, strategic filler for contours.
What the clinical evidence actually shows
A 2025 systematic review analysed 360 studies covering 750 participants. The good news: the body of evidence suggests polynucleotides improve skin elasticity, diminish wrinkles, reduce acne scars, and accelerate wound healing. Adverse effects are low β mostly temporary redness, swelling, or bruising.
The catch: study quality is inconsistent. Dosing varies widely. Delivery methods differ (intradermal, subdermal, microneedling-assisted). Outcome measurements aren't standardised. One trial measures elasticity by texture analysis. Another uses patient satisfaction. That makes it difficult to say definitively "this dose produces these results" because there's no gold standard.
The 2025 systematic review concluded that while the potential of polynucleotides is significant, current evidence is fraught with inconsistencies. Standardisation of dosing, delivery method, exact downstream effects, safety profile, and sourcing all need to be established before polynucleotides can be accepted as a proven therapeutic with established quality and reliability.
Who benefits most from polynucleotides
- Women with early-to-moderate fine lines and loss of skin elasticity (ages 30β50)
- People with textural concerns (roughness, uneven tone) but not significant volume loss
- Those with acne scars that are shallow to moderate (not deep pitted scars)
- Women with significant volume loss may need filler in addition; polynucleotides alone won't restore cheekbone height
The honest gaps and next steps
Long-term safety data beyond 12 months is sparse. We don't yet know whether repeated polynucleotide treatments over 5 years are safe or whether there's an optimal treatment frequency. The sourcing and standardisation of PDRN products varies by manufacturer, meaning you're not getting a uniform product across different brands.
This isn't a reason to avoid polynucleotides. It's a reason to be selective about your provider β someone who uses a well-researched brand with published safety data and can explain the specific protocol they're using.
Before booking a polynucleotide treatment
Ask your provider: What brand are they using? Does it have published clinical data? What's the specific protocol (dose, depth, number of sessions)? What are realistic timelines for results and duration? Avoid clinics that make cure or dramatic transformation claims. Realistic expectations: modest improvement in texture and fine lines over 6β8 weeks, results lasting 9β12 months, minimal downtime (redness for 24β48 hours).
References
- Polydeoxyribonucleotides as Emerging Therapeutics for Skin Diseases. MDPI Applications. 2025;15:10437. Full text
- Lampridou M, et al. The Effectiveness of Polynucleotides in Esthetic Medicine: A Systematic Review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2025. Wiley Online Library. DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16721
- Comparison of Polynucleotide and Polydeoxyribonucleotide in Dermatology. PMC. 2024;12388916. PMC12388916
- Skin Regeneration and Barrier-Improvement Efficacy of Polydeoxyribonucleotide. PMC. 2023;10649580. Wound healing and regeneration evidence